New
Food of Life
Ancient
Persian and Modern Iranian Cooking and Ceremonies
0-934211-34-5
$44.95
1992
In
Stock
New Food of Life is a treasury of 240 classical
and regional Iranian recipes. 120 color photographs intertwined with descriptions
of ancient and modern ceremonies, poetry, folk tales, travelogue excerpts, and
anecdotes make New Food of Life not just a collection of recipes but also an
introduction to Persian art and culture.
Each recipe is presented in a format that is brilliantly logical and marvelously
easy to follow. You will learn how to cook rice, the jewel of Persian cooking,
simply yet deliciously. And by combining it with a little meat, fowl, or fish,
vegetables, fruits, and herbs, you'll have a balanced diet--colorful, yet
healthy, simple yet exotic.
Iranian festivals, ceremonies, and celebrations, together with the menus and
recipes associated with them are described in detail: from the ancient winter
solstice celebration, Yalda, or the "sun's birthday," which is the
origin of such Western holidays as Christmas and Halloween, to the rituals
and symbolism involved in a modern Iranian marriage.
Like a magnificent Persian carpet, 1,000 years of Persian literature and art
have been woven into the book. Food-related pieces from such classics as the
10th century Book of Kings, and 1,001 Nights to the miniatures of Mir Mussavar
and Aq Mirak, from the poetry of Omar Khayyam to the humor of Mulla Nasruddin
are all included.
Now with the ingredients for Iranian food available in most US cities, New
Food of Life makes accessible one of the world's oldest--yet least known--culinary
traditions where the first recipes were written 4,000 years ago in a cuneiform
script on clay tablets.
Los Angeles Times:
"The
definitive book on Persian cooking: not just a recipe collection but a fond
introduction to a culture and a fascinating cuisine."
The Washington Post: "A
jewel of a book."
The New York Times:
"Too
delightful to miss."
Chicago Sun-Times: "A
stunning cookbook."
USA Today: "A
beautiful introduction to Persian cuisine and culture."
Booklist: "Modern
Iranian cooking fits perfectly with today's lighter eating styles. Recipes are
presented in an easily followed style."
World of Cookbooks:
"Persian-Iranian
cuisine can have no better introduction than this book."
The Toronto Star: "A
fabulous new cookbook.... The glossy tome-an array of elegant recipes peppered
with lavish color photos of food; Persian miniatures and artwork-is the result
of 12 years of painstaking research."
Publishers Weekly: "Effectively
weaves Iranian cookery with ancient Persian legends and poetry and descriptions
of traditional ceremonies and holidays."
The Baltimore Sun: "[Mrs.
Batmanglij] has been careful to keep the recipes authentic."
Middle East Studies Association Bulletin:
"For those who find ethnic cookbooks a bit daunting
and pretentious, here's one that holds true on what it promises, plus much much
more.... suggests in book form what Babette's Feast and Like Water For Chocolate
did through film.... this book will meet if not surpass your expectations."
{Full text of all reviews>>}
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Preface
Appetizers and Side Dishes
Soups and Ashes
Vegetables
Egg Dishes
Meat, Chicken, and Fish
Rice
Khoresh
Pickles and Relishes
Preserves
Pastries and Breads
Desserts
Persian Snacks
Hot and Cold Drinks
Made and Stored Kitchen Ingedients
Ceremonies
Classification of Hot and Cold Foods
Equipment / Measures / Essential Ingredients
Persian-English Glossary
Menu Suggestions
Specialty Stores and Restaurants
Index / Bibliography
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Preface to the First Edition
When I am at home with the samovar steaming and the
house fragrant with the smell of onions and garlic cooking, when the air is
filled with the captivating aroma of mint and rare spices, what beautiful memories
come back to me! I see the pantry behind the kitchen of my childhood home once
again. The odors of savory, fenugreek, marjoram, and angelica burst through
the white cloth sacks that hang from the ceiling. Perhaps this book was inspired
most by those perfumed memories. Above all, though, the cuisine of my country
brings back to me the image of my parents and friends sitting cross-legged on
a Persian carpet around the sofreh, a cotton tablecloth embroidered with poems
and prayers.
Iranians wake up early, before the sun rises. In our family, my father and grandmother
engaged in an amusing little contest every morning. The first one up was the
proud winner. As soon as he awoke, my father would usually go out into the garden
and head straight for the jasmine we had growing in red clay pots. He would
pick all the flowers that had bloomed overnight and lay them at my mother's
place on the sofreh. But sometimes Grandmother would get to the garden first.
I can still hear father speaking in that mock-angry tone of his as he discovered
that the jasmine bushes had been stripped of their flowers. "That grandmother
has been here already!" he would say out loud. When our grandmother nonchalantly
joined the rest of the family at breakfast, she casually plucked the concealed
flowers from their hiding place under her shawl and dropped the fragrant bouquet
near my father. He would pretend to ignore her as he waited to take his sweet
revenge the next morning. I have fond memories of those breakfasts, or sobhaneh.
The meal itself usually consists of sweet tea, feta cheese, and nan-e barbari,
a crusty, flat bread made fresh very early every morning. Breakfast sometimes
includes other types of bread, jam and honey, fresh cream, butter, and hot milk.
Fried or soft-boiled eggs, saffron cake or pudding (halva or sholeh zard) might
also be served, or even, before a long mountain hike, a soup made of tripe (sirab
shir-dun) and lamb head and feet (kalleh pacheh). Sobhaneh is a very important
and pleasant moment in the life of an Iranian family, a time to be together
before everyone leaves for work.
The cuisine of any country is a fundamental part of its heritage. The ingredients
reflect its geography, while the savor and colors accent the aesthetic tastes
of its inhabitants. And food is associated with so many major social events-births,
weddings, funerals-that culinary traditions are intertwined with a country's
history and religion. This is especially true of Iran (called "Persia" by Westerners
in ancient times).
Thousands of years ago, Zoroaster elaborated the ancient myth of the Twins.
One became good and the other evil, one the follower of truth and the other
of falsehood. This concept of duality is typically Persian, and it extends beyond
moral issues. We often balance light and darkness, sweet and sour, hot and cold.
For us, food is also classified as "hot" (garmi), which thickens the blood and
speeds the metabolism, and "cold" (sardi), which dilutes the blood and slows
the metabolism. Dates, figs, and grapes, for example, are hot fruits; plums,
peaches, and oranges are cold.
It takes a certain skill to correctly select food for the family, since people
too can have hot and cold natures. An extremely out-of-balance diet can lead
to illness. For example, those with "hot" natures must eat cold foods to achieve
a balance. My son, like many other five-year-olds, sometimes eats too many dates
or chocolates. Because he has a hot nature-something I learned very early in
his life!-too much of this hot food does not agree with him at all. Drinking
watermelon or grapefruit juice, or the nectar from other cold fruits, quickly
helps restore his balance-and his smile.
Increasingly, science is discovering links between food and health. And while
the ancient Persian system of balance does not eliminate the need for doctors,
experience has proven that it is an excellent nutritional adjunct to good health.
My objective in writing this book was not just to compile a collection of recipes,
however delicious they might be. Instead I have tucked in among them other pearls
of wisdom from my country-verses from our poets and old legends. I have described
an Iranian wedding and some of our joyful holiday traditions. I have included
photographs to show that our dishes are as colorful as our most beautiful carpets.
For us, feasting our eyes is the first pleasure of a good meal.
I have always enjoyed cooking and have selected these recipes on the basis of
my personal preferences and experience. I was aided in my research by my mother
and other great cooks, who gave me valuable advice. As my knowledge grew, so
did my curiosity and interest in my country's gastronomic heritage. This led
me to research the origins of many of our ceremonies.
Among all the traditional recipes I have collected, only the simplest are included
here. I have refined them over the years, first in France and then in the United
States. In many instances, I have adapted old recipes to modern kitchen tools,
like the food processor and the electric rice cooker. All the recipes were systematically
tested using ingredients that are now, because of the increasing Iranian expatriate
community, available almost everywhere in America.
When I think of a meal, I think of the family all together. I hope that my sons
will have similar memories of the simple pleasures of life when they are grown.
I dedicate this collection to them and to all Iranian children living far from
the country of their heritage by the course of political events.
Najmieh Batmanglij
Georgetown, March 1986
Preface to the New Edition
New Food of Life is the result of twelve years
of testing recipes and creating new techniques for cooking Persian food in the
West. It is also the culmination of my work on the three cookbooks I have written
about Persian food and ceremonies in French, English, and Persian. I am writing
this book for those new to Persian food and culture, those who enjoy having
creative fun in the kitchen, and for gourmet cooks, both Iranian and American.
I have revised and added many new recipes and incorporated 100 color photographs,
since they complete the text and make it easier to grasp the way a recipe should
look. I have also added more explanations where it has seemed necessary and
included an up-to-date list of Persian stores and restaurants. I have also added
to this book ancient ceremonies and rituals still maintained in various parts
of Iran.
Persian food is a very important and integral part of our life and culture,
so important that it is very frequently used as a metaphor for describing beauty.
Farzaneh Milani tells us in her book, Veil and Words, for example: "Moon-faced
beauties have almond-shaped eyes, peachy complexions, pistachio-like mouths,
jujube colored lips, hazelnut-like noses, red apple cheeks, and lemon- or pomegranate-like
breasts-a mobile green grocery, if you will."
I believe that the same qualities that govern the Persian arts, a sense of unity
achieved by juxtaposing many elements-each a unit in itself-and what one might
call a particular feeling for the "delicate touch," or as we say in Persian,
letafat, govern the art of Persian cuisine. I have tried to demonstrate this
by including not only photographs of the dishes but also textiles, copper ware
and pottery, miniatures, poetry, calligraphy, and pieces from classical Persian
literature all related to food. I have explored the rich garden of Persian literature
and art through the ages and have picked some images: from the fourth-century
Pahlavi language text, King Khusrau and His Boy, the story of a boy who, before
being knighted, is tested by the King not on his prowess in archery, sword fighting
or riding, but on his knowledge of food, to the sixteenth-century miniatures
of Mir Mussavar; from the Shahnameh by the great tenth-century Persian poet
Ferdowsi, who gives a detailed description of fillet of veal marinated in saffron,
rose water, old wine, and pure musk, to the contemporary writer Simin Daneshvar,
who begins her best-selling novel, Savushun,
with a description of a loaf of flat sangak bread, the likes of which had never
been seen before.
I hope that while you try the recipes in the book, you will also read and look
at these images, all of which draw from the rich spring of Persian culture,
where the first recipes were written four thousand years ago in a cuneiform
script on clay tablets.
Najmieh Batmanglij
Georgetown, June 1992
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Introducing people to the
pleasures of Persian cuisine has been a lifelong mission for Najmieh
Batmanglij. Her New
Food of Life: Ancient Persian and Modern Iranian Cooking and Cerimonies
was called "The definitive book of Persian cooking" by the Los Angeles
Times, and her Silk Road
Cooking: A Vegetarian Journey was selected as one of the Vegetarian Cookbooks
of 2004 by the New York Times. She has spent the past 25 years traveling,
teaching cooking, and adapting authentic Persian recipes to tastes and techniques
in the West. She is a member of Les Dames dEscoffier and has taught
and lectured throughout the United States. She currently lives in Washington,
DC, where she is teaching master classes in Persian cooking and is working
on a new book for children to cook with the family.
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